Potty Training Your Puppy—Potty Puppy Training Tips.com

The first and most important thing you need to do is to train your puppy that they must do their job outside. As far as your dog is concerned the world, with the general exception of their bed, is their toilet. It’s up to you to train them to learn that outside is the only acceptable place to go. It’s not hard to do but it does take some commitment for you to follow a step by step program.

Even though may look at your puppy as a cute and cuddly object you have to break out of those habits you may have already started of dismissing bad behavior. Your puppy will learn from you and will become master of the house if you let them. It’s instinct that if you don’t become the alpha dog your puppy will. Take control of this potty training process right away and you and the dog will be much happier—guaranteed.

To start, the puppy needs to be kept in a confined area in the house and that doesn’t mean in your bedroom or your lap. This is not punishment. This is training that will pay huge benefits for the entire time you have the dog. The entire process includes lots of praise for the desired behavior. Dogs will react to your mood and your praise signifies a good mood that will translate to a wagging tail.

Step 1: Get a crate or kennel for your puppy. When you are away from home or not interacting with the dog he should be in the crate. They will recognize this as ‘home base’ and will also act as a safe and secure location—just like the dens of their ancestors. Even at night the dog should be in the crate. They may whine at first but will get used to the idea. The dog should not be given free run of the house as this could add to feelings of dominance. The home will become his territory and not yours. Most dogs will not make a mess in their kennels, and that can lessen the possibility of an accident in the house. The crate should be large enough for your dog to sit up, stand, and turn around. If the crate is to large it will make your dog feel less secure and too small will be uncomfortable. If your dog is going to grow larger you may have to invest in larger kennels. What I did with one of my dogs was to put a cardboard spacer inside the crate to make it appear smaller to the dog as a puppy. When he got larger I just removed the piece of cardboard. If you maintain the crate well and you should be able to sell it on something like Craigslist or at a yard sale.

In the beginning someone will have to be around the puppy most of the time. Don’t get a puppy just before you leave for a vacation or other extended absence. One of the best days to get a puppy is Friday so you have at least two days to concentrate on housebreaking. That way you can spend a lot of time with the puppy and get to know some of its ‘signals’ and getting it set on a regular schedule of potty breaks outside. And lots of praise after he does his job outside. If there’s an accident in the house never rub the dog’s nose in it.

Step 2: Besides lots of praise you may use treats for housebreaking and other training. Buy a variety of treats of the size that your dog can handle. You may have to cut up some that are a little large. Don’t keep them in your pocket. Use a Ziploc bag or buy one that clips to your belt. There are all sorts of different kinds available, make sure to get ones that your little puppy can handle chewing up. You might even cut up the treats into small, bite sized pieces.

Step 3: For potty training you should use a stopwatch or something else that can be used as a timer. Some people, because they are apartment dwellers or because of physical reason will use pee pee pads with small dogs. This can be a convenience for apartment dwellers or for folks that find it difficult to be able to take the dog out regularly. There are some grass beds that can be used instead of the pee pad. They present a more appealing look and are better for the smell problem. This can be an acceptable choice if your puppy is going to use a balcony to do his business. I would be reluctant to use either of those if the dog is going to grown into a medium or larger size dog.

Step 4: Get set up on a schedule. You should feed and the dog at the same time every day. Some folks feed dogs twice a day, some only once. Your dog will give you clues as to which it prefers. Whenever you feed the dog he should be given a set amount of time; no more than thirty minutes to eat and then take the food away. After the dog has eaten he should immediately be taken out to go potty. You MUST be the one to choose the area of your yard that you want the dog to use as a toilet and take him to that area. Walk the dog around the area and use a phrase that works for you like “Go Potty”. Eventually the dog will get used to the routine and what you say and he will react to them for the rest of his life. It’s also very important to make sure that everyone in the household who will take the dog out uses the same phrase.

Continue to use the phrase while the puppy goes potty, until he is completely finished. Once he is done praise him and give him affection and a small treat. If he does not go potty within five minutes take him back inside and put him in his kennel. Wait fifteen to twenty minutes and try it again. A general rule of thumb is that a puppy can hold it for one hour for every month of age plus one hour. If your dog is two months old he should be able to hold it for three hours. This does not mean you should wait three hours before taking him out.

During the day you will need to repeat this process at least once every hour, even if the puppy has not eaten. Each time your puppy has a successful potty trip praise him, give him a small treat, and give him some supervised play time.

Step 5: When it’s bedtime your puppy should be locked in his kennel. I would try to avoid this but while he is still young you might want to move the crate into your bedroom at night, to make both you and the puppy feel more secure. You don’t want to cross the fine line of doggy dependency. Definitely, do not feed or give and water to your puppy near bedtime and try to get him to go potty one more time before you turn in. When he is still very small you may want to get up once during the night and take him out to the potty area of the yard.

Following these steps you should have your puppy trained in less than a week. No dog is perfect and you may still have problems. You might have to adjust your schedule to better suit the needs of the dog. You’re making a commitment so you have make adjustments. Be patient because even the best trained dogs can have an accident. Keep some carpet cleaner around and clean up immediately. Don’t punish the puppy for accidents especially by rubbing their nose into the mess. It was an accident. They don’t do this on purpose to get back at you for something. They are not like humans, fortunately. They just want your love and approval and you will get the same in return and a great, unconditionally loving companion.

Learn How to Potty Train Your Puppy

Puppy Training–Puppy Biting 101

Puppy Biting 101

Why do puppies bite nip and at people?
Just as we humans rely a great deal on our hands as we carry out our daily activities, dogs use their mouths A LOT to explore the world, occupy themselves, and interact with each other. You may have thought that nipping, mouthing and biting in young dogs is considered to be teething but it’s actually considered to be a form of social play. The discomfort of teething causes some of this behavior, but puppies also frequently “mouth” on each other during play because this activity helps them learn how to be gentle with their sharp puppy teeth. Teething usually includes gnawing or chewing on things around the house.
The first thing you must do is to provide a regular daily routine that includes lots of time for play including controlled chase and retrieve games, as well as long walks or jogging. 30 minute, or longer, walks are great stress relievers for dogs. If your puppy is 18 weeks or younger, it’s actually a good idea to let them mouth on you during play, so you can help them learn how to be gentle. Wrestling and tug-of-war games can be fun but, for puppies that already have a problem with excessive play biting, these games may lead to play that is too rough and can quickly get out of hand. In controlled circumstances however, these games may be acceptable. Puppies need to learn to control the force of their bite, commonly known as bite inhibition. This is something they start to learn while with their littermates. It is one reason that puppies should not go to new homes until 7 – 8 weeks of age and they have had time to practice social skills with other dogs. However, even after puppies have been adopted into the new home, it can be extremely beneficial for the puppy to have regular interactive social play periods with other dogs or puppies in the home or in the neighborhood.

What can be done to prevent play biting?
If your dog is receiving adequate play, attention and exercise, you can turn your training to bite inhibition. All puppies need to learn how much jaw pressure causes pain. Without this feedback, a puppy does not learn to inhibit the force of its bite. Because all dogs can and will bite at some time, this lesson is vital for safety.

How can you teach this lesson? When puppies play with each other, if one puppy bites another too hard, the bitten puppy will yelp, and may also stop playing and leave. This sends the message to the puppy that its bites were too hard and if it wishes to continue to play, it needs to be gentle. If you repeat this exercise, your puppy will learn that mouthing on you too hard results in the end of all fun and interaction for a while. However, people often do not send this message to their puppy. In the beginning, they might allow the puppy to chew and bite on them without reprimands and the puppy assumes that the behavior is acceptable. Children appear to be most vulnerable because their attempts at stopping the biting may not be properly timed or sufficiently abrupt to stop the puppy from biting. In fact a child’s response is often seen by the puppy as an invitation to increase its level of chase and play. Adult supervision or a head halter for training (discussed below) should help to insure more immediate success.

The message people should send is that mouthing and chewing on hands is painful. All family members must consistently follow the rules for the puppy to understand and learn what is considered desirable behavior and what is not. However, regardless of the technique, you cannot expect the play biting to cease until you first insure that you are giving regular and sufficient opportunities for play at times when the puppy is not play biting. If the puppy begins to play bite or chew and tug on clothing, then ignoring the puppy or walking away may be sufficient. If all family members are consistent in their responses, the puppy should quickly learn that play biting actually leads to inattention rather than play. In fact, all forms of play and attention soliciting behavior should be ignored, as these can quickly escalate into more intense biting. You should be the one to schedule and initiate play sessions and not your puppy. If you teach your puppy to sit or lie quietly before each play session, you should soon have your puppy trained that these behaviors, and not play biting, will be rewarded with a play session.

If ignoring the puppy or saying “off” and walking away does not stop the biting, then you will need to work on discouraging the behavior. Begin by teaching each family member to emit a sharp ‘yip’ or ‘ouch’ as soon as biting begins so that the puppy backs off. Cease all play and attention immediately. This sends the message to the puppy that the bites are painful and that biting will cause play to be terminated. Another option is to use a sharp ‘off’ command while briefly pushing forward with the hand to back the puppy away (no hitting). Alternately, a sharp ‘off’ and quickly backing away can be effective. Most important is that the play should cease. The command ‘off’ followed by the immediate removal of play can act as a form of punishment with the word ‘off’ soon teaching the dog that if it continues to bite, play will be withdrawn. This training usually works for those family members that are a little more forceful and assertive, and who are immediate and consistent in their training. If the puppy persists, chases or immediately repeats the behavior, closing a door and walking out of the room can help to teach the puppy that nipping leads to immediate inattention.

What if yelping does not help?
Other techniques are often suggested for play biting. Some involve harsh discipline, like slapping the puppy under the chin or forcefully holding the mouth closed. Remember, pain can cause aggression and cause the puppy to become anxious, fearful or perhaps more excited. These techniques also require that you grab an excited puppy; not an easy thing to do! Some puppies may even misinterpret the owner’s attempts at punishment as rough play, which in turn might lead to an increase in the behavior. Physical methods are therefore not recommended. Owners, who cannot inhibit the puppy with a yelp, could consider a shaker can, water or air spray, noise alarm, or ultrasonic device, as soon as the biting becomes excessive. The loud noise or spray is used to startle the puppy, who will likely back up and stop biting. When that happens the puppy should immediately be praised and gentle play and interactions resumed.

The use of a head halter with a remote leash attached allows the puppy to play and chew, but a quick pull on the leash can immediately and successfully close the mouth and stop biting without any physical force. By simultaneously saying “no biting”, most puppies will quickly learn the meaning of the command. As soon as the puppy stops and calms down, the owner can allow play to resume, as long as biting does not begin again. This is one of the quickest and most effective approaches to stop the biting and get immediate control of the muzzle and mouth, and is useful for owners that are not gaining sufficient verbal control.

Remember that play biting is a component of play behavior in puppies. Play is a form of social interaction. Realize that your puppy is trying to play with you even though the behavior is rough. To ensure that you are in control, be certain that each play session is initiated by you and not the puppy, and that you can end each session whenever you choose. One effective strategy when the play gets too rough is to immediately end the play session and leave. Social withdrawal can be a very powerful tool. Leave the puppy alone long enough to calm down. If upon your return the wild playing begins again, leave again. Although it is tempting to pick the puppy up and take it out of the room, this interaction may be interpreted by your puppy as additional play and the biting may continue as you carry the puppy to a confinement location. Keep track of which types of play seem to get the puppy too excited and these should be avoided to help prevent biting behavior.

Can I play tug-of-war games with my puppy?
Games of tug and pull can be a good way for the puppy to expend energy while playing with family members. In this way the puppy can be given an acceptable outlet for pulling, biting and tugging rather than on the clothing or body parts of people. In addition, the tug of war game provides an opportunity to teach the puppy to give up toys on command. However, tug of war games are only acceptable if they remain under your control, or if play biting and over exuberant behavior increase. Select a few tug toys for playing this game and be certain that you are the one to start each session. It might be best to keep the toy(s) out of the puppy’s reach until its time to play the game. Throughout the play session, particularly if the puppy gets too excited or begins to grab hands or clothing, have the puppy settle down and give up the toy before allowing play to continue. Food rewards can also be used at the outset to encourage the puppy to stop the give up the toy. At the end of each tug session, teach the puppy to give up the toy and reward with a favored chew or feeding toy. If successful, this type of play provides you with a means of controlled interactive play, as well as teaching the puppy to give up the toy on command.
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Important Tips
• DO provide a wide variety of “legal” chew toys and treats for your puppy, and redirect her attention to these if she
attempts to gnaw on inappropriate items (like your clothes or your stuff).
• DO use toys when playing with your puppy. If the two of you frequently interact with your puppy’s toys, she’s much
less likely to develop a habit of tugging on clothes or chewing on human hands instead.
• DO provide opportunities for your puppy to play with other healthy, vaccinated puppies and adult dogs.
• DON’T yell at your puppy for trying to mouth on you during play. She’s only doing what’s natural for puppies to do.
If you follow the directions above when she mouths on you and make sure she has her own toys to chew, you’ll both be very happy.

The more a puppy is socialized before the age of four months, the fewer things are ultimately perceived as threatening, and the less likely it is that a bite will occur in the adult dog. This means actively exposing the pup to as many various kinds of people and circumstances as possible, making sure each exposure is a positive, rewarding experience. The pup needs to not only meet people of all ages, races and sexes, wearing and carrying all kinds of clothes, hats, sunglasses, backpacks, umbrellas, etc., she must learn that all of these people are wonderful. The best way to do this is to have everyone she meets feed her the tastiest dog treat you can find. This will not only reduce the chances of her ever biting anyone, it will also help overcome tendencies toward shyness.
Learn the Secrets to Dog Training

How to Introduce the Family Dog to the New Baby

How to Introduce the family Dog to the New Baby
After bringing your new baby home you may be concerned about how your dog is going to react to the infant. Some people go so far as to give their pets to shelters because of jealousy shown by their dog after a new baby’s arrival and fear that the dog may cause harm. Many times the worries are unfounded but you should always error on the side of caution.
Introducing the dog to your baby is a process that needs time and the utmost of care to ensure a happy and safe welcoming! The steps to make sure your dog acts appropriately around the baby when he or she is finally brought home is a two step process usually – preparing your dog for the infants arrival and introducing your dog to your infant.
Preparing your dog: Preparing your dog for the baby’s arrival in advance is one of the best ways to help avoid friction and jealousy between your baby and your dog. The dog is used to your attention and pampering, some jealousy will naturally occur when your new baby becomes the center of attention. Taking some precautions, a few minutes of quality time and some extra treats can go a long way! Be sure to:
Take your dog to your local Veterinarian for a complete checkup a few months before the baby arrives.
Worms and parasites can be harmful to your baby so be sure to worm your dog before the baby arrives and at the normal intervals to keep on top of this problem.
If your dog is not spayed or neutered, this is also the time to get it done.
Encourage friends with infants to visit your home to accustom your pet to babies. Supervise all pet and infant interactions.
Allow your dog to explore the baby’s sleeping, diaper changing areas, and related items such as baby powder, lotions, and diapers to become familiar with the new smells and objects. Apply baby lotion or powder to your hands, for example, and allow your dog to sniff the new smell. Dogs rely on their sense of smell, so familiarity with the new baby smells will help him or her recognize the baby as a part of the family. If possible, allow your dog to smell clothing that your baby has used before you bring the baby home.
Accustom your pet to baby-related noises months before the baby is expected. For example, play recordings of a baby crying (there are CDs out now for this exact training purpose. Turn on the mechanical infant swing, and use the rocking chair. Make these positive experiences for your pet by offering a treat or playtime.
Do not allow your dog to sleep on the baby’s furniture or play with the baby’s toys. Your dog should know that the furniture is not for him or her and should treat it as such. Provide toys for the dog that do not resemble baby toys. A dog may take the toy from the baby’s hand and unintentionally injure the infant.
If the baby’s room will be off-limits to your pet, install a sturdy barrier such as a removable gate (available at pet or baby supply stores) or, for jumpers, even a screen door. Because these barriers still allow your dog to see and hear what’s happening in the room, your dog will feel less isolated from the family and more comfortable with the new baby noises.
Use a baby doll to help your pet get used to the real thing. Carry around a swaddled baby doll, take the doll in the stroller when you walk your dog, and use the doll to get your pet used to routine baby activities, such as bathing and diaper changing.
Finally, and very importantly, be sure that your dog knows that you and your family are alpha over him or her – this is crucial to ensure you can reprimand your dog should any jealous signs show when the baby is brought home.
Introducing your dog to your infant:
The actual introduction of your dog to your newborn baby is of utmost importance and the first few meetings can often dictate how your dog responds to your baby on an ongoing basis. For this reason, it is crucial to undertake the introduction process slowly and properly.
Tips for the first meeting include:
When the baby comes home, another person should hold the baby while you greet your dog. Your dog has missed you and it is important to pay attention to him or her when you first get home.
Greet your dog happily and bring him or her a new toy as a gift to associate the baby with something positive. After your dog’s excitement about your homecoming has dissipated you should start introducing your baby to the dog.
If you are unsure of you dog’s behavior, leash or restrain him or her during the introduction. Talk to your dog, pet and encourage him or her to get a good look and sniff the baby’s hands and feet. Do not force a reluctant dog by pushing the infant in front of the pet. Allow the pet to explore the new smells at their own pace. Never leave your baby unsupervised with your pet. An infant is incapable of pushing the animal away and your dog may inadvertently smother the child. The actions of a baby may scare your dog and cause it to bite in self-defense. If your dog reacts aggressively, put him or her in another room until it is calm and try the introduction again.
After the initial greeting, you can bring your pet with you to sit next to the baby; reward your pet with treats for appropriate behavior. Remember, you want your pet to view associating with the baby as a positive experience. Again, to prevent anxiety or injury, never force your pet to get near the baby, and always supervise any interaction.
Life will no doubt be hectic caring for your new baby, but try to maintain regular routines as much as possible to help your pet adjust. And be sure to spend one-on-one quality time with your pet each day—it may help relax you, too. With proper training, supervision, and adjustments, you, your new baby, and your pet should be able to live together safely and happily as one (now larger) family.
For more information on dog training techniques and how to deal with problem dog behavior (like getting your dog accustomed to children), check out Secrets to Dog Training. It’s the complete manual for dog ownership and is designed to fast-track your dog’s learning. You can visit the Secrets to Dog Training site by clicking on the link below: Learn the Secrets to Dog Training